ALLIOLI THE GARLIC MAYONNAISE OF SPAIN

WITH VARIATIONS

 
Along the Mediterranean coastline of Spain, the Catalans are convinced that everything tastes better with allioli, the potent garlic mayonnaise that enlivens dozens of dishes, from paellas to shellfish to fritters to boiled potatoes to grilled foods. Dating back to ancient Rome – Pliny the Elder mentions a similar sauce in the first century A.D. – allioli takes its name from the words all (garlic), and oli (oil). It is pronounced ay-ee-oh-lee, similar to the word that identifies the French version known as aioli (and which has one less syllable).Unlike Provençal aioli, a trueCatalan allioli is made without eggs or lemon juice, the oil painstakingly whisked, drop by drop, into a paste of mortar-pounded garlic. Handmade allioli tends to be rather thick, with a glossy sheen and enough garlic to ward off an army of vampires. Such patience and skill are required to emulsify the sauce the old-fashioned way that these days even the staunchest traditionalists are embracing the egg-and-blender method - which is the method suggested here.COOK’S NOTE: To temper the garlic’s bite, modern chefs often blanch it, roast it, or sauté it in olive oil, before making the recipe for allioli. Here are two recipes for basic one- and two-cup quantities, and a “short cut” recipe using store-bought mayonnaise. Following those basic recipes are a half dozen wonderful “variations” along with suggested uses. Any of these recipes is superb when used as a finishing touch - simply slathered over almost-cooked fish (or another item) and then run quickly under the broiler to brown.

BASIC ONE-CUP ALLIOLI
Makes just over 1 cup

2/3 cup, extra-virgin olive oil
1/3 cup, peanut or canola oil
4 large garlic cloves – minced
2 large egg yolks
4 teaspoons, fresh lemon juice (or to taste)
coarse salt (kosher or sea)

Stir together both oils in a measuring cup with a spout. Place the garlic, egg yolks, and lemon juice in a blender and pulse until a coarse paste forms. With the motor running, add the oil in a slow, thin, steady stream. The mixture will be the consistency of a thick mayonnaise. Scrape the allioli into a bowl, and season with salt to taste, and more lemon juice, if desired. Let stand for at least 1 hour before serving, or cover and refrigerate if keeping longer. If the allioli seems too thick, thin it out with a little water before using.

BASIC TWO-CUP ALLIOLI
Makes just under 2 cups

1 cup, extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 cup, peanut or canola oil
7 large garlic cloves – minced
2 large egg yolks
1 large, whole egg
2 tablespoons, fresh lemon juice – or more if needed
coarse salt (kosher or sea)

Stir together both oils in a measuring cup with a spout. Place the garlic, egg yolks, whole egg, and lemon juice in a food processor and pulse until you have a fairly smooth paste. With the motor running, add the oil through the feed tube in a slow, thin, steady, stream. The mixture will be the consistency of a thick mayonnaise. Scrape the allioli into a bowl and season with salt to taste, and more lemon juice, if desired. Let stand for at least 1 hour before serving, or cover and refrigerate if keeping longer. If the allioli seems too thick, thin it out with a little water before using.

MOCK (SHORT CUT) ALLIOLI
Makes just over 1 cup

1 cup, store-bought mayonnaise (preferably Best Foods)
2 tablespoons, fresh lemon juice
4 large garlic cloves – crushed in a garlic press
3 tablespoons, fruity extra-virgin olive oil
coarse salt (kosher or sea)

Put the mayonnaise in a bowl and whisk in the lemon juice, garlic, olive oil, and salt to taste. Allow to stand for at least 2 hours for the flavors to develop.

Variations:
Roasted Garlic Allioli: Cut off the top 1/2 inch form 1 medium-size head of garlic, exposing the cloves. Place the garlic cut side up in a smll baking dish and brush with olive oil. Cover the dish with aluminum foil and bake the garlic at 375 degrees until tender, about 45 minutes. Cool, then squeeze the cloves from their skins. Substitute for fresh garlic in Basic One-Cup Allioli.

Serve with paella (listed on this website), fritters, or potato tortilla (listed as Spanish Tortilla on this website).

Sweet Honey Allioli: Whisk 1/2 teaspoon honey into Basic One-Cup Allioli. Taste and add a little more honey, as necessary.

Serve with pungent or salty dishes.

Smoky Paprika Allioli: Place 1 teaspoon mild smoked paprika, 1 1/2 teaspoons tomato paste, and a pinch of cayenne in a small bowl. Stir in 2 tablespoons very hot water. Allow the mixture to cool, then whisk this mixture into Basic One-Cup Allioli.

Serve with grilled meats or poultry or with fish cakes.

Colorful Saffron Allioli: Pulverize a medium-size pinch of saffron in a mortar, then steep it in 2 tablespoons of very hot water; allow it to cool. Whisk the saffron into Basic One-Cup Allioli.

Add a little saffron allioli to seafood stews or serve it with grilled or fried fish.

Zesty Orange Allioli: Whisk 3 tablespoons fresh orange juice and 1 tablespoon finely grated orange zest into Basic One-Cup Allioli. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours for the flavors to develop.

Serve with grilled fish, shrimp, or chicken, or with roast duck.

Nutty Almond Allioli: Whisk 1/3 cup finely ground almonds and a drop of almond extract into Basic One-Cup Allioli. Allow the mixture to stand for at least 2 hours for the flavors to develop.

Stir a little into seafood stews or soups, or serve with grilled fish.

Recipe adapted from: The New Spanish Table, by Anya von Bremzen (Workman)